I’m becoming somewhat of a connoisseur of hotel restaurants. First there was the River Restaurant, then there was Hunter 486 in London (review still to come) and now, Brasserie Blanc at the Marriott Manchester Airport Hotel in Hale Barns.
Maybe it was my newfound niche that got me invited down to try out the place, newly opened as it is. Whatever the impetus, I’m starting to like this little corner of the restaurant world I’ve seemingly carved out for myself.
For one thing, people always underestimate a hotel restaurant; often assuming it to be average food served to people who are either travelling or on business and therefore couldn’t care less what they eat. Secondly, there is a different kind of atmosphere at a hotel restaurant to a regular one – it’s one of excitement and, particularly in this case as it was an airport hotel, expectancy.
Where Brasserie Blanc differs from the others is that it’s already a well-established chain, headed up by the celebrity chef Raymond Blanc, who also happens to design the menus.
It’s interior, it has to be said, is pretty special. The hanging plants, chandeliers and metal latticework scream of a Belle Époque bistro, while the leather booths offer a slightly more laidback air.
We start with a chilled bottle of white and the Anchovy Appetiser (sourdough bread, anchovy butter and anchovies) while we peruse the menu.
Dishes are a mix of French and those that have been inspired by Raymond’s travels (so don’t be surprised to find things like tagine and Thai red curry mussels).
I opted for the BB Cheese Souffle followed by the Malabar Fish Curry with Toasted Coconut.
The cheese soufflé was completely different to the only other one I’ve ever eaten before, yet still light-as-air and accompanied by a cheesy sauce that you can slather on top.
The Malabar fish curry was wonderfully spiced with some fairly meaty chunks of toasted coconut thrown in there. It consisted of a big piece of roasted hake and a large prawn, which were both tender, in a pool of rich sauce (although perhaps not quite enough for the amount of rice).
I also ordered a portion of Sweet Potato Wedges on the side which, when combined with the accompanying zesty lime mayonnaise tasted exactly like the fish and chips crisps I used to love as a kid (if you know, you know). That is in no way a negative thing, people – it was amazing! I only wish all sweet potato wedges were cooked like that; crispy on the outside and fluffy on the inside. I actually joked that perhaps they were my favourite part of the main course, because I had zero expectations for them before they arrived and then they surprised me beyond imagination. High praise indeed.
Scott opted for the Mediterranean Fish Soup, followed by the Grilled Cod with Preserved Lemon, Chili Squid and Squid Ink Risotto.
There was a real depth of flavour to the broth of the soup, even though there was no shellfish floating in it. I only sampled a couple of bites, but I could tell it was delicious.
Visually, the cod and risotto was stunning. The rice was creamy and decadent, like any good risotto should be, yet was balanced out by the tang of the preserved lemon and spiciness of the chilli squid.
Next came dessert and there was only one option in my mind: the Pear Amandine Tart.
It was warm, almond-y (it’s a word, right?) and comfortingly sticks to the roof of your mouth, like any good frangipane does.
Having said that, Scott’s dessert, the Pistachio Soufflé, was a thing of beauty (not to mention of thing of great proportions).
It was even fluffier than my cheese one and tasted of almond, too. Surprisingly for those who loathe pistachios, it actually didn’t taste too much of the nut, but was akin to the fluffiest Aero bar you will ever have eaten (minus the mint, of course).
The service throughout was impeccable; another trait that many wrongly assume is the first to be overlooked in a hotel restaurant. If you’re heading on a trip out of Manchester Airport and are looking to stay at the Marriott, I can’t recommend this place highly enough. Even if you’re not, it’s a damn good chain French eatery that will surprise you right through to dessert.
- Manchester Airport Marriott Hotel, Hale Road, Hale Barns, Manchester WA15 8XW
- Open Mon – Fri 6.30am – 11pm, Sat and Sun 7am – 11pm
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