Christmas can often be the most magical time of the year to visit European cities (especially if you’re someone who relishes cold weather) and Copenhagen was no exception.
I’d almost go so far as to say that the Danes love Christmas – and it’s traditions – as much as us Brits do. There are decorations everywhere (including real trees in offices), every shop/restaurant/hotel/bar is playing festive music, the Danish mulled wine is flowing and special festive foods appear on almost every menu.
As someone who revels in the holiday season and actively seeks out festive fun, here are some of my recommendations for the best things to do in Copenhagen at Christmas.
Tivoli Gardens
Tivoli Gardens is a must during a visit to Copenhagen at any time of year, but even more so at Christmas time.
The effort that goes into decorating the amusement park is mind-boggling; from blanketing the whole place with snow to setting up gigantic fully-dressed Christmas trees and sneaking elves and garlands into every available corner. It’s like a festive wonderland for small and big kids alike.
And what’s even better is that Tivoli hosts its own Christmas market, with stalls dotted around the park (although most are located towards the main entrance).
Drink Glogg at Hviids Vinstue
Glogg is the Scandinavian version of mulled wine. It’s rich, sweet and spiced and features the addition of almond slivers and raisins sitting at the bottom of each glassful.
Hviids Vinstue is one of the oldest bars in the city (almost 300 years, to be exact) and is famous with locals for its deep, rich – and strong – glogg served during the festive period.
Visit the Carlsberg Christmas Market
The Christmas market at Visit Carlsberg runs for two weekends at the beginning of December and is a great added bonus if you were going to make a trip over there anyway.
The brewery experience itself is one of the best I’ve visited, with funny, knowledgeable staff leading the tours/beer tastings and good quality food being served in the restaurant. It couldn’t be further from the “look at those shiny tanks!” tours that so many breweries run. I highly recommend it.
The Christmas market is only small, but features local, independent business owners selling handmade beauty items, food and even décor. Plus, the outside bar sells, you guessed it, beer – but also their own version of glogg made with a rich Christmas ale, which is definitely worth a sip.
Eat Aebleskiver – and Drink Lumumba
Aebleskiver are the Danish version of Dutch poffertjes – small, puffy, round pancakes that are served dusted in icing sugar (and usually accompanied with a fruit jam). They’re sold everywhere during the festive season, particularly at the Christmas markets dotted around the city.
Another festive favourite you’ll notice scribbled on blackboards all over Copenhagen at this time is lumumba. It’s essentially a boozy version of hot chocolate made with rum (or sometimes brandy or amaretto) and then toped with cream.
Drink White Glogg at Hotel D’Angleterre
So that tasty, deep red glogg you just drunk at Hviids Vinstue? Well, it has some competition in the form of a deliciously warming, sweet white counterpart over at the luxurious Hotel D’Angleterre.
At Christmas time, this fancy hotel – whose usual customers consist of businessmen paying with expense accounts and the cast of the Real Housewives of Copenhagen – serves up this delicious festive drink at its lobby bar.
It’s made with a base of white wine and cognac, along with slivers of almond. It also comes served with some homemade white chocolate, marzipan and coconut truffles. Decadent; pricey; but so worth it.
And as an added bonus, the Hotel D’Angleterre’s Christmassy exterior always draws a crowd because they feature a different theme each year (this year was an advent calendar displaying Hans Christian Andersen fables behind each door).
Visit the Huge Christmas Tree at City Hall Square
There isn’t much to say about this one except that it really wouldn’t be a Christmas city break without going to see a huge and beautiful tree. So go.
Visit the Christiania Christmas Market
I was really intrigued by the notion of Freetown Christiania as a whole, but I honestly didn’t have any expectations whatsoever about their Christmas market.
If you’re not aware, Christiania is an autonomous anarchist district which kind of governs themselves (also known as an “alternative society”).
Their Christmas market was being held inside a large hall, filled with stands manned by local artists and entrepreneurs. There were a handful of food and drink offerings, but mainly it was ornaments, jewellery, clothing and gifts.
But by far the best part of the market was the live music line-up they had. We sat and listened to a band playing a mix of Christmas tunes and Danish hits for ages, soaking up the atmosphere while surrounded by families, tourists, locals and everyone in-between.
Walk along Nyhavn
Much like Tivoli Gardens, Nyhavn (the historic waterfront) is a must for almost every visitor to the city. But during Christmas time, you can also stroll through the stalls of a Christmas market and take in the festive decorations that adorn all of the shop fronts.
It can get pretty busy – what with all the tour groups and budding photographers – not to mention blustery (it’s December, after all), but that just gives you all the more reason to go and grab a glogg.
Have a Drink in Jernbanecafeen
If you can get past all of the cigarette smoke in the air (smoking is still allowed inside), then this is a quirky bar with an insane Christmas fetish.
Located opposite Central Station, Jernbanecafeen is a train-themed bar that is stuck in a bit of a time warp and all the better for it. At Christmas time, every available space is filled with tinsel, presents, lights and decorations and there’s usually a live musician (or a jukebox) playing some festive tunes. You really have to see it to believe it.
And my advice for avoiding the smoke? Go mid-afternoon or early evening during the week (i.e. not at weekend evenings or during rush hour – this place is frequented a lot by those killing time before catching their train).
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