One of the things I was most looking forward to about our South Devon holiday was getting my hands on a cream tea. Well, several, if we’re being honest.
I’m a sucker for a good scone and a nice pot of Earl Grey, and as Devon and Cornwall are famous for cream teas (don’t ask which one started the phenomenon, because depending on who you’re talking to, you’ll probably get a different answer), I knew the quality was bound to be high.
What is a Devon Cream Tea?
I’m sure some of you out there don’t have a clue what a cream tea even is, so let me fill you in. A “cream tea”, whether served in Devon, Cornwall, or anywhere else in the UK, is essentially a scone (or two), served with clotted cream & jam, along with a pot of tea (traditionally, but there’s nothing stopping you ordering a coffee or soft drink if tea isn’t you kind of thing). It *isn’t* the same as an afternoon tea – there’s no other cakes or sandwiches here. Think of it as an alternative to the modern day cake-and-coffee.
How Do You Eat a Devon Cream Tea?
Now, depending on whether you eat your cream tea in Devon or Cornwall, the order in which you slather the scone with the cream and jam is important. In the rest of the country, how you smother your scone is totally up to you – feel free to scoff away without judgement – but these two counties have a very specific way of doing things.
In Devon, you should spread the cream onto the scone first, and then top it with jam.
In Cornwall, it’s the opposite way around.
Obviously, my being in Devon meant that I had to eat it the Devon way, despite secretly preferring the Cornish method. But it didn’t hamper my enjoyment in the slightest – I was too busy filling my face to care.
My Top 3 Cream Teas in South Devon
So, on to the specifics. I did my research before we set off (naturally) to find some good places to go for cream teas. Some were better than others, both in experience and quality of the food, but these three were my top picks.
3. Dart to Mouth Deli, Dartmouth
We visited Dart to Mouth Deli as we’d read that it served the “best cream tea in Devon”. Those are lofty claims indeed.
I ordered a pot of Earl Grey and Scott ordered a cappuccino. We were actually pretty stuffed from our hearty lunch at the Royal Castle Hotel, but were determined to try this place out for dessert, considering they were supposed to be so good. All of the tables are outside, in Dartmouth Market’s covered courtyard, so if the weather’s bad, this probably isn’t the best place to enjoy a leisurely cup of tea.
The presentation of the cream tea was fairly basic – plain white ceramic crockery and the scone, cream and jam all squeezed onto one plate. But this is a deli, not a tearoom, so I’m not going to knock them on that.
The scones are obviously freshly-made and warmed prior to serving and are served with plenty of clotted cream and strawberry jam. The scones were very crumbly, almost like shortcakes, which isn’t my preferred type of scone, but they still had a nice buttery taste. If the weather’s nice and you’re planing a trio to Dartmouth, I think this place is a nice little retreat from the main streets, particularly if you’re looking for a smaller cream tea (they offer servings of one or two scones) or if you love your scones more on the crumbly side.
2. Grey’s Dining Room, Totnes
If you want to experience an old-fashioned British tearoom (with values to match – they ask that customers don’t use mobile phones inside), then Grey’s Dining Room is the place for you. Stepping inside feels like stepping into an elderly relative’s house, filled with curios, crockery and bric-a-brac.
I ordered a pot of Earl Grey tea, which came beautifully presented in a floral china teacup, while Scott had a homemade elderflower cordial (nice and sweet, but not overly so).
There is only one choice of cream tea here, which consists of three small scones per person, accompanied by both strawberry & blackcurrant jams and clotted cream. They were all served on a glass cake stand, which was a nice touch if you’re sharing.
The scones were floury and almost biscuit-like, possibly because they are smaller than regular scones. I did feel that I would have preferred one or two regular-sized scones as opposed to these mini versions, but I guess their daintiness is more befitting of their surroundings. It was nice having two types of jam to choose from, however there wasn’t enough cream for all six of our scones but there was jam to spare, so I think the portions need re-adjusting a little.
An added bonus of Grey’s is that they also serve a big range of homemade cakes and pies, so if scones aren’t to your liking, you’ll be able to find a sweet treat that is, while still enjoying the vast range of teas on offer – and the quirky atmosphere.
1. Valley View Cafe, Kingsbridge
And finally, on to my absolute favourite – and quite possibly the best afternoon spent of our whole trip. We came upon Valley View (part of the Aune Valley Farm Shop) because it was close to where our cottage was located. After a quick Google, I realised that Mary Berry had been at the opening of their cafe, so I knew they must be selling some decent baked goods.
The weather was amazing that day, so we chose to sit in their garden and admire the great views (they also have an indoor dining room and covered patio). We both ordered a pot of Earl Grey which was delivered in glass teapots with cute china teacups. I knew we were off to a great start when I tasted the tea – it was fragrant and almost smoky.
The cream tea came out presented on wooden boards – two huge warm scones and two small pots of clotted cream and strawberry jam. The scones were soft and only slightly crumbly, and tasted as though they’d just come out of the oven. The clotted cream was some of the creamiest I’ve tasted – I assume sourced from their farm shop – and there was plenty of both the jam and the cream for both scones, despite their size.
The quality and size of the scones here, as well as the overall experience (scenery, staff friendliness, quality of tea and presentation) made this my number one pick of all the cream teas we’d eaten.
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