I’ve always heard such great things about the food scene in Dartmouth. Not only is the town famous for its location overlooking the River Dart and the steam railway that ends it scenic journey at the Kingswear, but in recent years it has also become a bit of a foodie haven. Perhaps because of the bounty of fresh fish and seafood available? Or maybe it’s all that clotted cream and fudge? Either way, when the nice folks at the Royal Castle Hotel invited us down for lunch during our holiday in South Devon, I would have been a fool to refuse.
The Royal Castle Hotel enjoys a rich past, located as it is in a former 17th Century coaching house. It sits regally overlooking the bustle of the town and the marina, and you can’t really miss its impressive facade with turrets sticking out of the top.
The Grill Room, their AA-rosette restaurant, is located on the first floor, with bay windows that overlook said marina, but on the day we dined the Rotary Club were occupying the main room of the restaurant (I swear those guys follow me around!), so we were seated in the smaller side room. Nevertheless, we managed to snag the best seat overlooking the water.
The staff were super friendly and attentive, and the room quickly started filling up with lunchtime diners. We ordered a couple of drinks while we looked at the menu, but the room did have a slight ‘function room’ vibe to it; the similar kind of vibe that you’d get at a wedding breakfast.
I opted for the Baked ‘Little Wallop’ Goat’s Cheese Salad to start, which isn’t usually like me as I never order salads, but knowing that my main course was going to be filling, I gave it a go. Plus, if I’m being honest, I’m a sucker for goat’s cheese and butternut squash. The salad was tasty and well-dressed, and had enough nuggets of pickled onion and beetroot to make it feel more substantial than it looked. I really liked that there were a range of leaves and endive in there – no bagged gem lettuce here!
Scott went for the Spiced Potted Crab, which was delivered in a dinky mason jar with a couple of pieces of focaccia (I would have called it bruschetta myself, but that’s the pedant in me). The presentation was great, and the waitress even brought extra bread for him without being asked, but the jar the crab was in was so cold it had solidified the butter on top a little too much. After plenty of digging, he managed to scoop everything out, and admitted that the crab was nice and fresh, but, as at The Winking Prawn, the fact that it had been pre-chilled in an icy fridge took the edge off the flavours. Also – note to the chef – this dish would definitely be better served with a small spoon.
For main course, I opted for the Seafood Tagliatelle with crevettes, baby shrimp, sun-dried tomatoes and spinach. It had been ages since I’d eaten a creamy prawn pasta and the dish it was served in was misleading in size – the portion was huge! Halfway through I almost admitted defeat, but being the greedy person that I am, I gallantly soldiered on. The sauce was deliciously rich and indulgent, but you could still taste the prawns and the tomatoes perfectly. Could definitely rival any similar dish I’ve had at a good Italian restaurant.
Scott ordered the Brixham Mussels. These local mussels came served the Belgian way – in a large steaming pot with a side of bread for dipping. I dislike mussels, but Scott invited me to try the cider and cream sauce, so I dunked a piece of bread in and gave it a go. I could have eaten a whole bowlful of the sauce and died a happy woman. It even made me consider changing my stance on mussels. Almost.
Overall, the food was of a very good quality – particularly the main courses – and I did enjoy the view over the town and harbour. But we were definitely the youngest of the clientele that day and the atmosphere was a little staid. Having seen what kind of food the hotel is putting out, however, if I was back in Dartmouth I’d definitely be tempted to eat a meal downstairs in their old-fashioned pub, where the atmosphere was a little more lively.
- The Royal Castle Hotel, 11 The Quay, Dartmouth, Devon TQ6 9PS
- Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and afternoon tea daily
- https://www.royalcastle.co.uk/food-drink/the-grill-room/
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