The best thing about your bus from Montenegro to Sarajevo breaking down and taking twice as long as it should have? The fact that you get to meet your other weary travellers (who, incidentally, turn out to be Bosnian locals) and ask them where and what you should eat whilst you are in the city.
The answer was unanimous – Cevapi at Zeljo.
Named after a Sarajevo football team, this old-style restaurant is apparently the only place in the city to get your cevapi fix (well, one of two, if you count Zeljo 2, their other branch located further down the same street). So of course I had to check it out.
Cevapi consists of small meat sausages (you usually pay a price per the number of sausages you want) served in a flatbread with a generous helping of chopped white onions. A popular addition is cream cheese, which we ordered with it and which I actually thought improved the dish no end. The dish reminded me a lot of a kebab in its construction, but without the addition of the cream cheese I would have found it a bit bland. However surprisingly, this dish actually doesn’t require a sauce accompaniment as, despite my initial reservations, the bread is so fluffy and meat juicy that it isn’t dry at all.
- Zeljo and Zeljo 2, Bascarsija (Old Town), Sarajevo
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