Everything you have heard is true. Milford Sound is breathtaking.
Originally intending to take a day trip from Queenstown which included a cruise of the Sound, we changed our plans in order to be able to enjoy it to the full and decided to stay there for two nights. The day trips are long and tiring, usually a 12 or 13 hour round trip which includes a very early start on a bus, being shuttled onto your cruise boat and then back on to the bus to be home in time for dinner. Great if you are short on time. Not so great if you don’t like early start and don’t want to be half-asleep whilst cruising around one of the most amazing sights on the South Island.
Many people believe that to see Milford Sound at its best is to see it in the rain, as this is when the number of natural waterfalls increases tenfold and it apparently makes the scenery even more dramatic (although it’s hard to believe that it could get any more breathtaking than it was on the day we visited). Coming from one of the rainiest parts of Britain, I was more than happy to forgo a few smaller waterfalls to enjoy some well-deserved sunshine on deck.
We took a Jucy Cruize (that’s how the cool kids are spelling it these days) which lasted just under two hours and the budget backpacker inside of me jumped for joy at the sight of the free tea and coffee on board. Not that we spent much time indoors. With scenery like this, you would be a fool to get your caffeine fix in the confines of the boat.
The highlight for me was sailing right up to the rocks on which some sea lions were basking in the sun, barking at each other. One even plopped into the water and paddled around a little as we watched on; it was almost as if he didn’t want the stunning scenery to steal the show and was determined for the crowd to go home happy. He didn’t disappoint.
Before I got to New Zealand I had read lots about Milford Sound and how it is the most crowded and touristy of the Sounds that you can visit and that this can take the edge off the whole experience. For me, I would have to say that nothing was further from the truth. There are only a small number of ships which sail from the terminal each day and the sailings are staggered so that no two ships are ever in competition for sea space. Neither do you have to listen to the endless droning commentary of other ships nearby (which has happened at other tourist sites I have visited). The boat we were on didn’t have a set commentary – the captain would simply point out sights of interest and tried to make the experience fun and informative. But I guess as with everything in life, an experience is what you make it. And I made sure it was unforgettable.
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